Castles Of North Cyprus (3)

THE highest Crusader castle in Cyprus is Buffavento, which stands at 970 metres above sea level and is sited between the castles of Kantara to the east and St Hilarion to the west.

Its name derives from Italian, and roughly means Defies The Winds, a title whose significance becomes apparent as soon as one starts climbing the approximately 600 steps to the top.

It is a long way up from where the coach dropped me

There is a false moment of elation on reaching the outer gate, but the steepest part of the climb is still to be tackled.

Buffavento's outer gate

View from the outer gate

A last burst of steps takes one to the top, from which there are even more-spectacular views.

Nearing the peak

Overlooking lower parts of the castle

Lingering snow at the top

Looking to the Turkish coast

Parts of the castle, which may date back to the 1000s or earlier, are quite well-preserved

Signals were sent along the narrow Kyrenia mountain range by smoke and large mirrors during the day, and by fire at night

As with Kantara and St Hilarion castles, Buffavento's watchtower-role against Muslim attacks fell into disuse when Venice took over the island and switched to a coastal defensive system.

Castles Of North Cyprus (2)

KANTARA Castle is 600 metres above sea level, overlooking the Cilician coast of what is now Turkey on one side, and an extensive agricultural plain on the other.

Kantara Castle stands in splendid isolation

Historians are unsure as to when it was built, but it probably began as a watch tower in Byzantine times, possibly after Muslim conquerors were expelled in 965.

It was captured by Richard the Lionheart in 1191 and was later expanded by the French house of Lusignan.

Earlier rule by the Knights Templar was ended by a popular revolt, and this may have caused subsequent rulers to expand Kantara's fortifications

After Venice bought the island in 1489, Kantara was declared militarily obsolete and finally abandoned in 1525.

Obsolete, but still impressive

The climb to the top is worth it for the views alone, as well as the chance to look at medieval architecture up close.

Not much danger of being hit when shooting from this arrowslit, but not much of a field-of-fire either

The Turkish coast can just be made out in the centre-right distance

Looking inland to the south

Looking from the seaside village of Kaplica to Kantara Castle in the centre background

Castles Of North Cyprus

DURING a visit to Cyprus last week I was able to visit the three castles that dominate the Kyrenia mountain range in the north of the island.

Perhaps most famous is St Hilarion Castle, which lies 725 metres above sea level.

Lofty stronghold ... St Hilarion Castle

The peak was apparently originally the home of an obscure hermit - not to be confused with Hilarion the Great - who fled persecution in the Holy Land.

A Byzantine monastery and church were built in the 900s, followed by a watch tower designed to give advance warning of Muslim raids.

I see no ships

It was later expanded into a major fortification, the first known reference to which is from the late 1000s.

Subsequent rulers included French Lusignan Crusader kings, who used the castle as a summer retreat from the heat of the plains.

Climbing to the top - this view is roughly halfway up - makes for a decent workout

The castle included cisterns, and quarters for animals as well as the garrison.

How life may have looked

Cyprus was later ruled by the Venetians, who abandoned the heights in favour of a defensive strategy based on guarding the coasts.

Kite shield with Lusignan lions rampant

Walking down from St Hilarion Castle is less exhausting but at times a lot trickier than walking up to it.

Taking the long view - part of the upper castle walls can just be seen between two rocky peaks

(to be continued)